This is a very important section; therefore, I want you to print the table below and keep it for reference.
Your stitch length depends primarily on the weight of the fabric. "The heavier the fabric, the longer the stitch. Variations in weave, texture, and grainline may change the stitch length as well. Many people just buy needles for their sewing machine, not ever changing. Then, they wonder why their needles break so often. You MUST change needles according to the fabric. You will also find those changes in the chart below.
FABRIC | STITCH LENGTH | THREAD | NEEDLE | |||||
Brocade, medium weight | 12 spi or 2.5 mm | Molnlycke polyester | Medium Jeans/denim Sharp 90/14 | |||||
Challis, medium weight | 12 spi or 2.5 mm | Mettler mercerized cotton 50/3 | Medium/fine Universal 80/12 | |||||
Lycra, Two-way Stretch | 12 spi or 2.5 mm | Gutermann polyester | Medium/fine Stretch 75/11 | |||||
Shirting, Lightweight | 14 spi or 2 mm | Mettler polyester | Fine sharp 70/10 | |||||
Ultrasuede | Near 10 spi or 3 mm | Molnlycke Polyester | Medium Stretch 75/11 | |||||
Velvet | 12 spi or 2.5 mm | Gutermann Polyester | Medium-fine 80/12 | |||||
Wool Coating, heavy | 9 spi or 3 mm | Gutermann Polyester | Heavy Universal 100/16 | |||||
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Basting: 5 to 8 spi or 4 to 5 mm with an altered tension. Such large stitches are temporary because they are easy to remove. This example is 6 spi.
Fine stitching: 14 to 24 stitches per inch (spi) or 1 to 2 mm. Use this setting for seams in garments made from lightweight fabrics. This example is 24 spi.
Long stitching: 8 to 10 spi or 2 to 4 mm is used to ease in fullness. This example is 10 spi.
Reinforcing: 18 to 20 spi or 1 ½ mm. At points of strain or to prevent fraying when a seam allowance is clipped, choose this stitch length. This example is 18 spi.
Reinforcing: 18 to 20 spi or 1 ½ mm. At points of strain or to prevent fraying when a seam allowance is clipped, choose this stitch length. This example is 18 spi.
Regulation: 10 to 15 spi or 2 to3 mm. This is the setting that is commonly used for sewing most seams, with 12 spi or 2.5 mm being the most common. This example is 12 spi.
